THE HAIRY GIRAFFE… IN CAMBODIA
After one week in Cambodia, it’s time to reflect. How did we experience this journey? What were our joys, disappointments, questions, doubts, and discoveries? This is not merely an assessment of a country but rather of a trip—how we perceived it individually and subjectively.
 We are François and Benjamin, Canadian and French giraffe hairstylists and travel enthusiasts. On this blog, discover our travels, tips, moods, and everything you need to become a giraffe hairstylist and embark on travelling the world. An honest blog with photos guaranteed 100% unfiltered and untouched. |
Benjamin’s Travel Reflections
While in Japan, Korea, or even Bangkok, cute character drawings are everywhere, Cambodia is not a ‘kawaii’ Asian country. No funny characters on ads or streets, no Hello Kitty on phones, no pink hair, no manga costumes, no Pokemon Center, no BlackPink. Cambodia is a serious country.
However, it’s not a dull country. Cambodians smile all the time, displaying incredible hospitality and kindness. Everywhere, there’s a softness – in smiles, gazes, slow and composed driving, gestures, and in the presentation of dishes. Yes, there are tuk-tuks and scooters on every corner, but everyone moves calmly, almost in complete silence. People don’t rush. They don’t shout. Everything seems in slow motion, as if Cambodians take the time to live, to enjoy the calm after the storm of the Khmer Rouge. Because, yes, this gentleness also carries traces of sadness. How could it be otherwise when a quarter of the population was decimated between 1975 and 1979?
People generally come to Cambodia for its history. First, its glorious past, admired in the splendid ruins of Angkor. We spent three days at Angkor, sometimes pretending to be Lara Croft, sometimes Indiana Jones, amid temples where extravagant nature relentlessly tries to reclaim its space, reminding us that humanity must constantly fight to preserve the past.
Then, its tragic history, with the former prison of the Khmer Rouge and the mass graves of Phnom Penh. These two sites are among the most horrifying we’ve visited, even compared to Auschwitz and various Nazi and KGB camps and prisons in the Baltic States.
Its colonial past (Cambodia was under French protectorate for a century) has also left some traces, notably Art Deco or Napoleon III-style buildings that appear as intruders in the landscape.
However, Cambodia seemed to be turning towards the future during our visit in 2024. While the scars of the 20th century are still palpable, with visible pockets of poverty when traveling by bus or strolling along the Mekong River, there is evident economic development and rapid modernization. In Phnom Penh, vast real estate projects are emerging, towers are under construction, international brands are settling in, and overall sanitary conditions are much improved compared to a few years before.
Foreign investments, particularly from China, are massive and rapidly transforming Cambodia’s landscapes and economy. Does Cambodia have the means to defend its own path?
Similarly, the massive influx of tourists to Angkor raises questions. In 2024, Chinese tourists had not yet returned in large numbers, allowing us to visit the majority of temples almost alone. Even Angkor Wat was surprisingly deserted. We explored independently, renting bikes. While this freedom to roam enhances the excitement of the visit, it raises concerns about the protection of such a fragile site.
Why did we only stay a week in Cambodia? Simply because we didn’t expect to find such a wonderful country. In trip preparation, I noted two opposing trends. The majority of tourists view Angkor as a stopover, an extension of a trip to Thailand. The rest of Cambodia doesn’t interest them, and Phnom Penh is often described as having no appeal. A day at Angkor, and they head back to bask in the sun on a Thai island.
The second trend is to dedicate an entire month to Cambodia, exploring its every rural corner. This way of traveling in Cambodia is much rarer and often involves world travelers spending a semester in Southeast Asia.
We visited Cambodia as part of our 8-month world tour, and 8 months is short for a global journey. Therefore, we chose to compromise and spent just one week in Cambodia.
After spending 3 weeks in India, I was concerned that Cambodia might offer a similar level of discomfort, and a week seemed sufficient to fully enjoy Angkor and the capital, Phnom Penh. Indeed, a week is ideal for these two places. Perhaps a few extra days would have allowed us to experience a bit of traditional rural Cambodia, disappearing rapidly beneath hotels, casinos, and other real estate investments of the Chinese giant… A future that may not be as glorious as it seems.
Check out François’ Travel Reflections:
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