THE HAIRY GIRAFFE… IN FRENCH POLYNESIA

How long? We spent five weeks in French Polynesia.

When? July and August, the dry season. Dry season doesn’t mean it never rains; we regularly had some rain, usually passing, except in Moorea where it rained for several consecutive days.

Ease of independent travel: 3 giraffes On the larger islands, renting a car is necessary to go around as public transportation is rare, if not non-existent. To travel from one island to another, taking a plane is the quickest and often the only available solution.

The Air Tahiti Pass is quite expensive, and it takes some time to calculate how many days you can spend on each island based on the flight connections. Apart from the most touristy islands (Tahiti, Moorea, and Bora Bora), there aren’t daily air connections. However, it’s still entirely manageable, and it’s not necessary to go through an agency to plan your itinerary.

Costs: 5 giraffes Paradise comes with a rather high price tag! French Polynesia leans more towards honeymooners than backpackers. Even though it’s still possible to find more affordable accommodations, expect to pay quite a bit for car rentals, flights, and activities.

Ease of communication: 5 giraffes What a pleasure to travel so far and still be able to speak French! English is also widely spoken, especially by those involved in tourism.

Security: 5 giraffes No concerns on the safety front.

Health: 4 giraffes Of course, one must consider the geographical distance in case of accidents or serious health issues, but the inter-island helicopter transfer system is efficient, and the healthcare system is very modern. Not all water is potable, but drinkable water is easily accessible, and hygiene rules are followed by everyone. There’s no malaria or seemingly very dangerous animals.

Don’t forget sunscreen and mosquito repellent. Against ‘nonos,’ tiny flies that can devour you within minutes, especially in the Marquesas, use monoi oil (it prevents them from settling on you to bite). It’s also recommended to wear UV protective clothing to shield yourself from the sun. Very practical for staying on the beach and for snorkeling.

Gay friendly: 5 giraffes LGBT+ travelers can visit French Polynesia with peace of mind. They will frequently encounter ‘rae rae,’ men who adopt feminine roles, clothing, and behaviors, and who have always been part of Polynesian culture.

Travel ease: 4 giraffes Traveling in French Polynesia is relatively easy, thanks to the kindness and assistance of the Polynesian people. However, one must not be too bothered by public transportation, especially the plane journey of almost 24 hours from Paris.

Highlights: So many favorites! Maupiti for its pristine beauty, Papeete for its manageable modernity, the Marquesas for their raw authenticity, and generally, the coral reefs, the variety of fish, the shades of blue, the hospitality of the Polynesians, the culture…

Letdowns: Unlike many, Huahine wasn’t a favorite for us. The island didn’t seem the most beautiful or pleasant. We also didn’t love Rangiroa, but if you’re into diving, you’ll probably have a better opinion.

This 5-week itinerary took us from the Society Islands (Tahiti, Maupiti, Raiatea, Taha’a, Huahine, Bora Bora, and Moorea) to the Tuamotu Archipelago (Tikehau and Rangiroa) and to the Marquesas Islands (Hiva Oa and Nuku Hiva).

Check out our individual Travel Reflections articles on French Polynesia:

Five-week itinerary in French Polynesia

For a detailed itinerary with daily activities, check our articles for each archipelago:

Day 0: Departure from Paris

Day 1: Arrival in the morning in Papeete

Days 2 & 3: Tahiti

Day 4: Flight to Maupiti (1h)

Days 5 to 8: Maupiti

Day 9: Flight to Raiatea (30 minutes)

Day 10: Excursion to Taha’a

Day 11: Raiatea

Day 12: Flight to Huahine (20 minutes)

Day 13 & 14: Huahine

Day 15: Flight to Bora Bora (30 minutes)

Days 16 & 17: Bora Bora

Day 18: Flight to Tikehau (2h)

Days 19 to 21: Tikehau

Day 22: Flight to Rangiroa (20 minutes)

Day 23: Rangiroa

Day 24: Flight to Tahiti (1h)

Day 25: Flight to Hiva Oa (4h)

Days 26 & 27: Hiva Oa 

Day 28: Flight to Nuku Hiva (40 minutes)

Days 29 & 30: Nuku Hiva

Day 31: Flight to Tahiti (3h)

Day 32: Boat to Moorea

Days 33 to 37: Moorea

Day 38: Boat for Tahiti

Day 39: Return flight

Day 40: Arrival in Paris

Find all our other articles on French Polynesia (detailed itineraries, travel reflections, focus on Polynesian culture…)