THE HAIRY GIRAFFE… IN FRENCH POLYNESIA
We spent five weeks in French Polynesia, one of which was in the Marquesas archipelago.
Here, we present our detailed itinerary for this week. On the agenda: Hiva Oa and Nuku Hiva, two islands with rugged landscapes where vegetation, tikis, and the memories of Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel create an almost mystical ambiance.
When we think of French Polynesia, we imagine paradise beaches, turquoise lagoons, colorful corals, and overwater hotels. The Marquesas archipelago, 1500km from Tahiti, is far from these landscapes. Here, green prevails. However, the landscapes are splendid, with coasts carved into broad, wild bays; the absence of lagoons grants freedom to the power of the waves.
Visiting the Marquesas comes with a cost: the Air Tahiti pass requires an expensive extension to reach the archipelago. Air connections necessitate passing through Papeete. Windy weather conditions often make landings or take-offs impossible. But once there, there’s no room for regret: the Marquesas engulf you in their magnificent landscapes. This ‘Land of Men,’ as the Marquesan name for the archipelago suggests, was a real magnet for us. More than just a change of scenery, it was a true emotional shock.
For an overview of our 5-week itinerary in French Polynesia (including the Society Islands and the Tuamotu) and essential destination information (costs, health, safety, etc.):
Can’t stress it enough: French Polynesia captured our hearts. Find our Travel Reflections articles on French Polynesia here:
One-Week Itinerary in the Marquesas Islands
Day 1: Early morning flight from Tahiti to Hiva Oa. The landscapes are radically different from those of the Society Islands and even more so from the Tuamotu. Forget about colorful lagoons and small white sand motus: the Marquesas offer us wild and rugged nature.
We immediately fall under the almost mystical charm of the archipelago. We drive to the cemetery of Atuona, where Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel are buried. Then, we visit Taaoa Beach and explore the Upeke Marae.
Day 2: It’s time to venture to the other side of the island, all the way to Hanaiapa.
We go on a beautiful hike to Hanatekuua Beach.
Before heading back, we go see the Smiling Tiki, whose smile might be as enigmatic as Mona Lisa’s.
Day 3: We visit the Paul Gauguin Cultural Center and the Jacques Brel Center. The complex isn’t very large but well-crafted and enjoyable.
Next, we follow along the northeast coast of the island with its magnificent bays. Grandiose landscapes indeed. We drive to the end of the road to reach the site of Iipona.
Day 4: We leave Hiva Oa and land in Nuku Hiva. The road to Tiohae confirms that it will be as beautiful as Hiva Oa.
In the town, the tikis are everywhere, of all sizes and shapes.
We visit the lovely Notre-Dame-des-îles-Marquises Cathedral and enjoy the view from our accommodation overlooking the bay.
Day 5: We drive north on the island toward Hatiheu.
On the agenda: the sites of Taipivai, Kamuhiei, and Hikokua.
Arriving at Hatiheu, we go hiking to admire the stunning Anaho Bay.
As we still have energy and an eagerness to see more, we decide to drive to Aakapa, despite a road that is not yet completed. The landscapes are stunning: we feel so far from the beaches of Tikehau or the streets of Papeete!
Day 6: Morning stroll to Colette Bay.
Then we take the car up to the Toovii Plateau.
We end the day at the Koueva site: bidding farewell to the Marquesas tikis. Tomorrow, it will be time to leave…
Day 7: Flight to Papeete; after leaving the Marquesas, we fly over the Tuamotu before reaching Tahiti.
Check out all our other articles on French Polynesia (detailed itineraries, travel reflections, focus on Polynesian culture…):
