THE HAIRY GIRAFFE… IN GREENLAND
After five days in Ilulissat, it’s time to reflect. How did we experience this journey? What were our joys, disappointments, questions, doubts, and discoveries? This is not merely an assessment of a country but rather of a trip—how we perceived it individually and subjectively.
 We are François and Benjamin, Canadian and French giraffe hairstylists and travel enthusiasts. On this blog, discover our travels, tips, moods, and everything you need to become a giraffe hairstylist and embark on travelling the world. An honest blog with photos guaranteed 100% unfiltered and untouched. |
François’ Travel Reflections
Being Canadian, I’ve heard about Greenland since I was very young. I always saw it on North American maps and sometimes on certain maps of Canada that we used at school. It was described as this immense frozen land inhabited by the Inuit people. It might sound completely silly, but I never thought it was possible to visit Greenland.
A land so hostile and frozen was naturally seen as cut off from the rest of the world. So, what was the interest in even going there, even for me, a big fan of cold and snow? It was while planning a trip to Iceland that we discovered there were flights between Reykjavik and Greenland during the summer. Would we be crazy enough to dare to take a look? The photos we found on the internet were beautiful and made the territory seem more welcoming, less hostile.
However, there didn’t seem to be much to do there, but the idea of going to Greenland was incredibly appealing. There was just one thing to do before adding a leg to our trip in Iceland: convince the in-laws, who were also joining the trip, to spend a few days with us on an ice mountain. Being naturally more averse to the cold (especially my mother-in-law), it was entirely possible that they might not dare to brave the cold. Fortunately for us, both had already faced (and survived!) a Quebec winter with its -40 degrees Celsius. So, a little glacier wasn’t going to freeze them!
An Unforgettable Flight
At Reykjavik airport, we had a brief moment of hesitation. The plane that was supposed to take us to Ilulissat didn’t inspire confidence on the tarmac. It was tiny (not even 40 seats: much less than the majority of flights we had taken so far) and it had propellers (I don’t know anything about aeronautics, but I always feel less secure in a propeller plane than in a jet).
For my part, this hesitation quickly dissipated as soon as I boarded the plane. It only took a smile from the charming Inuit flight attendant and the local Greenlandic newspaper on my seat to make me feel completely immersed.
If the first three hours of the night flight that separates Iceland from Ilulissat were uneventful, everything changed towards the end of the flight, approaching the city. Don’t worry, it’s not about strong winds or turbulence here (we’re not in Brazil!). The magic happens through the window: you fly over the ice sheet, the immense glacier that constitutes most of the territory’s surface.
In the middle of the night, illuminated by the light of the full moon, the endless ice gives the impression of being on another planet. A land resembling glass stretches beneath the plane, welcoming us tourists. As the ice scrolls beneath the plane, inside, we are all silent, noses glued to the window, captivated by the spectacle.
Falling for Ilulissat
The few days we spent in Ilulissat will forever be etched in my memory. The third most important city in the territory, Ilulissat (“iceberg” in Greenlandic) is the main tourist destination, and you can feel it. Accommodations are plentiful. All tourist agencies offer activities between nature and culture. Souvenir shops offer all the local handicraft products that might entice tourists.
Groups of cruise ship tourists also invade the city regularly during the summer. Fortunately, it’s never for long, and there are ways to avoid them by moving away from the center. Ilulissat is mostly about dozens of colorful houses, in front of which a polar bear skin hangs as a balcony trophy. Ilulissat offers an incredible view of Disko Bay and the Arctic Ocean. (We spent a considerable amount of time sitting on the benches in front of the beautiful church watching whales swim or icebergs drift by).
Ilulissat is also about walking on quiet hiking trails (except for the occasional barking of sled dogs in the distance), immersed in nature with a 360-degree view of the ocean and the purest air filling your lungs. It’s also an excellent way to delve into Greenlandic culture through its art and history museums. With a bit of luck, like us, you might even witness a traditional wedding exit from the church.
What Else Can I Say?
Greenland in the summer isn’t cold (at least Ilulissat isn’t). With an average temperature of around 8 degrees Celsius in July and August, you won’t turn into an ice cube. Obviously, there’s no snow during this period, making getting around much easier. The sun can even heat up enough to make you want to watch the icebergs in a T-shirt. It makes for an unforgettable memory!
In Greenland, a little over 10% of the territory’s population is of Danish origin. Denmark is quite present in Greenland. Danes are also very present in Ilulissat. As a tourist, it’s indeed impossible not to interact with Danes; they own the majority of facilities and businesses related to tourism.
In the town, there’s also a division between the two populations. The best example is the presence of two grocery stores: one Danish and the other Greenlandic. Step into the first, and you’ll feel like you’re in any supermarket in Western Europe, with a prevalence of Danish products, employees, and customers.
The second, on the other hand, is more modest and mainly frequented by Inuit people. It’s always impressive to see two cultures coexisting in this manner. In Greenland, we didn’t sense bitterness or animosity from the Inuit towards the Danes, as was the case in Namibia between African and European-origin Namibians. In Ilulissat, it felt like each population went about its life without much concern for the other.
Is Greenland Worth Visiting?
Absolutely. Greenland is one of the best trips I’ve ever taken. With its Inuit culture that I greatly appreciate and the omnipresent, stunning nature, it’s very difficult not to fall for the charms of this frozen territory. I’m aware that I only saw the touristy and softened part, moreover, in the summer. I imagine the atmosphere must be different in other towns like Nuuk or Kangerlussuaq, and life in winter must be very challenging.
Nevertheless, I felt wonderfully well there, calm, facing the ocean. I felt my fears, concerns, and stress leave me to make way for a real sense of well-being. It was much more effective than any therapy session! I could see myself living in Greenland, learning the language, and sharing the culture. Who knows, maybe one day I’ll manage to convince Benjamin to drop everything and go there to raise dogs?
Check out Benjamin’s Travel Reflections:
Find all our other articles on Greenland:
