THE HAIRY GIRAFFE… IN THE BALTIC COUNTRIES
Hong long? We spent nine days in the Baltic countries, traveling from North to South: Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania, visiting their three capitals: Tallinn, Riga, and Vilnius.
When? In October, before it gets too cold and once the tourist crowds start to thin out, it’s the perfect time to enjoy the autumn colors in the numerous forests.
Ease of independent travel: 5 giraffes 
Renting a car makes it easy! The three countries are part of the Schengen area, so traveling from one to another is hassle-free. The city centers are relatively compact, making it easy to explore all three capitals on foot.
Costs: 3 giraffes 
The inflation and rapid modernization in the three Baltic countries have made traveling more expensive. However, on-site expenses aren’t too numerous (a few interesting museums, but much can be enjoyed by simply walking through the streets), and it’s entirely possible to travel independently. There are many low-cost flights available from Western Europe.
Ease of communication: 3 giraffes It’s better to speak English, which is generally fluently spoken in hotels and by a growing part of the population.
Security: 5 giraffes The crime and violence rates are low, and there’s nothing particular that poses a specific danger to travelers.
Health: 5 giraffes The hygiene standards are very high, and the healthcare system is very modern. If you’re European, don’t forget to bring your European Health Insurance Card.
Gay friendly: 4 giraffes 
Mentalities and laws in the Baltic countries are changing quite rapidly regarding these issues. Generally, there’s no particular danger for LGBTQ+ travelers.
Travel ease: 5 giraffes The condition of roads and the small size of the three countries greatly facilitate a road trip. There are no particular dangers to be concerned about.
Highlights: The Old Town of Tallinn, Riga with its Art Nouveau district, and the baroque Rundale Palace in Latvia are all noteworthy places to visit in the Baltic countries.
Letdowns : 
The city of Vilnius.
Check out our Travel Reflections articles on the Baltic countries:
ONE-WEEK ITINERARY IN THE BALTIC COUNTRIES
This itinerary took us through the Baltic countries from Tallinn to Vilnius, exploring a lesser-known part of Europe.
Here’s the detailed itinerary of our week in the Baltic countries:
Day 1: After a night in Munich (layover), we arrive early in Tallinn. We booked accommodation in the Old Town, allowing us to explore on foot during the day. Despite the lack of sun, we developed a small fondness for the capital of Estonia. The buildings are very charming, people are smiling, strolling around is pleasant – in short, it just feels good to be there.
Day 2: We take a bus to visit the beautiful Kadriorg Palace located in Tallinn. The palace was built by Peter the Great in the 18th century. Don’t expect an immense castle like Versailles, but the place is definitely worth a visit.
In the afternoon, we stroll once again through the Old Town of Tallinn. Later, we walk around the Kalamaja district.
Day 3: We pick up our rental car and drive to the small seaside resort town of Pärnu.
After crossing the border into Latvia, we stop to touch the waters of the Baltic Sea. Then, we visit the medieval Turaida Castle in Sigulda. We’re almost alone and enjoy this well-restored and truly interesting site.
We spend the night in Riga.
Day 4: The day is dedicated to exploring the city of Riga. The city immediately gives off a metropolis vibe – real dynamism, traffic jams, rich and diverse architecture. Yet, the Old Town is almost deserted.
While the Old Town of Tallinn was bustling with tourists during the weekend, we find ourselves in deserted streets during the week in Riga.
In the afternoon, we stroll around the Art Nouveau district, exploring the streets Elizabetes and Alberta. Architecture enthusiasts will be in paradise.
Day 5: We take a brief walk in the city center of Riga before visiting the former KGB headquarters. The guided tour is a bit challenging but helps us better understand the horrors experienced by Latvians in the 20th century.
We gather ourselves at a traditional restaurant, enjoying, among other things, pea soup with bacon served in bread. In the afternoon, we visit the Riga Ghetto and Holocaust Museum. Part of it is outdoors, and the visit feels less oppressive than the former KGB headquarters.
We finish the day at the Latvian National Opera, enjoying a beautiful performance of Swan Lake.
Day 6: We leave Riga and drive to the Salaspils Memorial, on the site of a Nazi concentration and extermination camp. We are completely alone. The memorial is set amidst a beautiful forest. Regular heartbeats resonate throughout the site, making the memorial impressive and moving.
We hit the road again and briefly stop at the baroque palace in Jelgava, now transformed into a university.
Then we visit the baroque Rundale Palace and its French gardens (18th century). Once again, we are completely alone, and the caretaker follows us from room to room…
At the end of the day, we make a quick stop not far from Rundale Palace, at Bauska Castle, built by the Teutonic Order in the 15th century.
We spend the night in the vicinity.
Day 7: We enter Lithuania. We visit the Hill of Crosses, a pilgrimage site where crosses, crucifixes, and statues have been placed since the 14th century. The site also symbolizes Lithuanian culture and resistance to the USSR: Lithuanians continuously replaced crosses after they were removed by the Soviets.
We continue our journey to Kaunas and visit the Ninth Fort, a former Soviet prison and a site of Nazi executions. Like in Riga, the visit is quite challenging.
We spend the evening and night in Kaunas, a truly beautiful city.
Day 8: Taking advantage of the clear blue sky, we visit the medieval Trakai Castle.
We arrive in Vilnius, the final stop of our journey. In the afternoon, we explore the Old Town, which is quite compact.
We don’t necessarily have a strong affinity, especially when comparing Vilnius to Tallinn or Riga.
Užupis District.
Day 9: For our last day, what better way than to visit the Museum of Genocide Victims, housed in the former KGB headquarters…? This marks our final visit in the Baltic countries. It’s another challenging visit but very well done and undoubtedly rich in learning experiences.
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