THE HAIRY GIRAFFE… IN FRENCH POLYNESIA
After five weeks in French Polynesia, it’s time to reflect. How did we experience this journey? What were our joys, disappointments, questions, doubts, and discoveries? This is not merely an assessment of a country but rather of a trip—how we perceived it individually and subjectively.
We are François and Benjamin, Canadian and French giraffe hairstylists and travel enthusiasts. On this blog, discover our travels, tips, moods, and everything you need to become a giraffe hairstylist and embark on travelling the world. An honest blog with photos guaranteed 100% unfiltered and untouched. |
French Polynesia never really caught my attention. I even admit I had never heard of it before meeting Benjamin and being introduced to French culture.
Paradoxically, as a seasoned traveler, I’m not fond of flying. Being confined to a cramped space for long hours, regularly jostling with strangers for a few centimeters of legroom, is far from enjoyable. (Thankfully, Benjamin is understanding about it.) So, considering a destination that involves a 22-hour flight (each way!) wasn’t even a passing thought.
Everything changed one evening in front of the TV. Benjamin and I enjoy watching travel documentaries. Those about places we’ve been to remind us of fond (or not so fond) memories, and those featuring unknown destinations spark ideas for future trips.
One evening, we found ourselves, right from the start of the documentary, on a paradisiacal beach with white sand and crystal-clear water. For nearly two hours, we were mesmerized. I don’t think I even blinked to ensure I didn’t miss any of those incredible images. Clearly, the damage was done: a mere glimpse of French Polynesia had me completely hooked. I just had to visit this paradise.
The Legendary Hospitality of the Polynesians
Upon arrival at Faa’a International Airport on the island of Tahiti, we encountered the legendary hospitality of the Polynesians. Welcomed with tiaré flowers, ukulele players, broad smiles, and the famous ‘Ia ora na’ (see our Polynesian glossary), which we heard and repeated hundreds of times in the weeks that followed.
Every single Polynesian we encountered during our stay was welcoming. We never felt sidelined or unwelcome. Granted, most of them were in the tourism industry. I understand it’s their job, and they have a vested interest in being kind and friendly to tourists to ensure the profitability of their businesses. However, we never felt that the flower or shell necklaces they offered us, the fruits and pearls they gave, or even the invitations to join a va’a (traditional Polynesian outrigger canoe) expedition with friends were merely for show or to receive a tip or a good Airbnb or Google review, as is often the case in many countries.
Quite the contrary. We could sense the sincerity behind their gestures. The Polynesians were genuinely happy to receive us and delighted to introduce us to their paradise and their culture. It’s impossible to remain indifferent in the face of so much joy and kindness. Even at the airport, standing in line for immigration, with 22 hours of flight behind us, almost 30 hours without sleep, a 12-hour time difference, and looking exhausted, we still felt welcomed and knew this journey would bring nothing but happiness.
Postcard-Worthy Landscapes
It’s impossible to write about French Polynesia without mentioning its landscapes. With its turquoise waters, white sandy beaches, and volcanic islands blanketed in lush vegetation, French Polynesia is an exact replica of the picturesque postcard images you might have in mind.
The translucent lagoons, bordered by coral reefs, harbor an extraordinary marine life: clownfish, triggerfish, damselfish, angelfish, anemones, giant clams… will dazzle you with their vibrant colors. Diving beneath the water’s surface also grants you the chance to see rays (stingrays, leopard rays, and manta rays), blacktip reef sharks, and turtles. (I promise you, watching a massive manta ray ‘fly’ is truly magical).
The mountainous landscapes emerging from certain archipelagos add a majestic perspective to the horizon. These peaks covered in tropical forests offer hiking trails leading to breathtaking panoramas, often along the mountain slopes or at their summits. A personal favorite is the viewpoint atop Maupiti’s mountain: it’s arguably the most beautiful view in all of Polynesia. However, if you plan to climb, make sure to have sturdy shoes, water, and start early in the morning. The ascent is long and challenging. I won’t even tell you in what state I ended up after the climb…
What Else Can I Say?
The cuisine is excellent there… if you love fish, that is. The produce is beyond fresh: fish is caught offshore (sometimes within the lagoon) and, bam, straight onto your plate. It’s impossible to resist fresh mahi-mahi soaked in coconut milk and lemon juice. The fruits are juicy, sweet, and sun-drenched. Guilty as charged, I did pull over on the side of the road in the Marquesas to pluck a starfruit, a mango, a breadfruit, or a papaya (as big as my head!) ripening peacefully on its branch.
Polynesia is safe. You might think that the teeming lagoons and lush forests harbor creatures ready to sting or leap at you, but no. The coral reefs surrounding the Society Islands act as a barrier and keep the big, mean fish away from the beaches.
In the forests, you won’t find any wild beasts, deadly snakes, or insects that pose a threat to humans. Even the mosquitoes don’t carry potentially dangerous diseases. No malaria, chikungunya, and cases of dengue or Zika are rare. It’s an environment where you can fully and peacefully enjoy nature.
Is French Polynesia worth visiting?
What do you think 😉? French Polynesia is a trip of a lifetime. I know it’s not within everyone’s budget and the flight time might deter some, but honestly, no other destination has left me with such memorable experiences. I spent 5 weeks in a dreamland, one of the most beautiful places on the planet.
Once I recovered from the worst jet lag I’ve ever experienced, I quickly and easily adapted to the Polynesian way of life and felt like a true islander. There’s something truly addictive about French Polynesia: when you’re there, you always want more (of its landscapes, food, beaches, culture, human warmth), and when you leave, all you wish for is to return.
For my part, I struggle a lot to get French Polynesia out of my head (to be honest, I don’t even try). I think about it every day, which makes me nostalgic for that country and sometimes complicates daily life in the city. French Polynesia also interferes with my travels. It’s now impossible for me to lounge on a beach without comparing the beach or the moment to what I experienced in French Polynesia. Even the legendary Copacabana beach looks pale compared to the lagoons of Bora Bora or Maupiti…
I see only one way to counter this nostalgia: immigration. Alright, I’d drop everything and go live in Tahiti! If only…
Check out Benjamin’s Travel Reflections:
Check out all our other articles on French Polynesia (detailed itineraries, travel reflections, focus on Polynesian culture…):