Romania: François’ Travel Reflections

THE HAIRY GIRAFFE… IN ROMANIA

After one week in Romania, it’s time to reflect. How did we experience this journey? What were our joys, disappointments, questions, doubts, and discoveries? This is not merely an assessment of a country but rather of a trip—how we perceived it individually and subjectively.

François’ Travel Reflections

A strong lack of cold and snow prompted us to choose a country with distinct seasons for a February trip. We had already visited Finnish Lapland and wanted something different. We didn’t need high mountains as we don’t ski. We didn’t necessarily need vast white expanses and tons of snow; we just wanted to feel cold (yes, indeed, the need to feel cold is real, especially for a Québécois) and walk on a white layer. We also didn’t want to go very far; Europe offers beautiful destinations, and the countries there are varied enough for us to find what we seek. With these criteria, a few images of the Carpathians and Dracula (whom I had read about the previous Halloween) led us to choose Romania, specifically a region, Transylvania.

The Dracula Myth

It was impossible for me to go to Transylvania without fully experiencing the Dracula myth. I might have been naive, but I expected to find Dracula everywhere in Romania. Having the chance to encounter a mythical character from literature, globally known, as an icon of the country was very appealing to me. So, I was greatly disappointed when I realized, in the first few days spent wandering around Bucharest and browsing souvenir shops, that Romania doesn’t seem to hold as much affection for Dracula as I do. The character is indeed not very prominent there. Upon reflection, this is probably normal: we were not in Transylvania, and the capital has other things to highlight. All my hopes rested on the town of Bran, a small commune in Transylvania where the castle that inspired Bram Stoker is located.

While heading to Bran, I was as excited as a teenager in a clothing store with her CEO dad’s Total credit card in hand. The city of Dracula, a 100% Dracula town, was going to be really awesome! There would be Dracula or at least vampires or bats everywhere. I expected to find all sorts of merchandise featuring Stoker’s character in the shops, to see people dressed up as vampires, to see the word ‘vampire’ written in blood letters on the storefronts, to be served ‘blood’ drinks in restaurants and bars, to find a booth selling crosses, garlic cloves, and holy water at the foot of the castle… you know, a lot of stuff! (Yes, I know, sometimes it’s a bit like Disney in my head). In reality, not at all, absolutely not.

The city of Bran has no particular interest and doesn’t ride the Dracula wave at all. No blood, no bats, no sharpened canines, no dressed-up locals. We even struggled to find two vampire magnets from the souvenir sellers near the castle. Perhaps the winter season didn’t help; several stands and souvenir shops were closed, and the surroundings of the castle were rather deserted. However, I doubt that in the peak of summer, vampires invade the town to feast on tourists.

So, without crosses, garlic, or holy water, and under gray skies (just to set the mood), we ventured toward the castle. First off, the castle is truly magnificent. Massive, it sits atop a ridge, dominating the town. Below it, there’s a lovely park where you can (finally!) spot a few spooky signs and decorations.

After a rather pleasant stroll in the park, taking numerous photos of the famous castle and the few vampire-themed images around, we decide to enter inside. At this point, we’re quite excited because even if the town doesn’t embrace the vampire vibe, the castle seems to want to make up for it. So, we expect to find a gloomy and dark setting. I even allow myself to dream again of messages in blood letters on the walls and, why not, Dracula’s chamber with his coffin, and maybe even his cape hanging on a coat rack. After all, it would be the least expected.

If I can visit Rémy the rat’s kitchen in Ratatouille and Sleeping Beauty’s castle at Disney, why couldn’t I visit Dracula’s room at Dracula’s castle (yes, my brain still in Disney mode…)? Once inside, second disappointment. White walls, bright white light, antique furniture, carpets… we are once again far from Dracula. Many panels narrate the history of the castle and Queen Marie of Romania (the royal family stayed at the castle in the early 20th century), but still nothing very vampiric. What a letdown! Suddenly, in a corner of the entrance hall, a name catches my attention ‘Vlad Țepeș’ (Vlad the Impaler… DRACULA!!!).

This is what the Dracula myth boils down to at Bran Castle: a small sign talking about the historical figure, making the connection with the fictional character. Sad. Fortunately, two pleasant surprises awaited us a little further inside the castle: a room dedicated to an exhibition on the folklore myths of the region, like werewolves and vampires (not mind-blowing, but at least something), and, accessible only to adults and for a small extra fee, a torture chamber.

This torture chamber displays real torture tools (Judas chair, impalement equipment, rack, etc.) with a detailed description of their use, complemented by images just in case you didn’t quite understand how it worked or which bone would break first. Even if it’s grim, horrific (all the more because they are real items), and can be nauseating, it’s perfect for Dracula’s castle!

What About the Rest of the Country?

Romania isn’t just about Dracula. There’s also Bucharest. My opinion on Bucharest is mixed. The city is dynamic and clearly has a youthful, vibrant, and student-oriented side. It also has a rundown aspect with graffiti, broken sidewalks, and abandoned buildings with shattered windows. The contrast can be a bit jarring. Transitioning from a pristine street with bustling restaurants to another where it feels like a bomb just went off is quite abrupt.

As if merely walking down the streets wasn’t enough to ‘appreciate’ this contrast between destruction and ‘beautiful’ things, we decided to visit Ceausescu’s villa. It was a visit beyond time and the limits of possibility. Enormous rooms, extravagant furniture, noble materials from floor to ceiling – the former dictator’s extravagance evidently knew no bounds. It was an eye-opening visit during which I couldn’t help but think that, in comparison, we lived in a broom closet.

And What About the Cold and Snow?

They were certainly present. A comfortable cold (you know, that kind of cold that firms up the skin and gives it a slight rosy hue without making us shiver, but still reminds us to wear a padded jacket if we don’t want to catch a cold) accompanied us for a significant part of the trip. It allowed us to bundle up and shiver as we pleased while giving us the feeling of experiencing a real winter.

Snow, a bit more discreet in urban areas, added some ambiance to Bran Castle and lent a picturesque touch to the landscape of the cities and villages we traversed. However, it was quite abundant during our stay in Paltinis and allowed me to do something I adore doing with snow (apart from throwing snowballs at Benjamin): diving into it and making snow angels.

Is Romania Worth Visiting?

I didn’t expect much from Romania (well, except for a lot from Dracula, but let’s not dwell on that…). So, it was a genuine pleasure to discover it. While Romania has a very traditional side with its horse-drawn carts on the roads, salt mines converted into real underground villages, and stunning churches like those in Curtea de Arges, it also has a modern side with its capital’s ‘destroyed’ character and its colorful small towns with spacious squares where it’s delightful to sit down for a drink. However, for Dracula’s merchandising and marketing communication, they might want to reconsider…