The Baltic Countries: François’ Travel Reflections

THE HAIRY GIRAFFE… IN THE BALTIC COUNTRIES

After one week in the Baltic countries, it’s time to reflect. How did we experience this journey? What were our joys, disappointments, questions, doubts, and discoveries? This is not merely an assessment of a country but rather of a trip—how we perceived it individually and subjectively.

François’ Travel Reflections

We ended up in the Baltic countries somewhat by chance. We were looking for a cool place to spend a week’s vacation in October and didn’t want to travel too far, as is often the case for short trips. Since we both like Nordic countries and Eastern Europe, the Baltic countries seemed like an excellent destination that checked all the boxes. Furthermore, the small size of the countries allowed us to embark on a new road trip. It made for more than a week of enjoyable experiences.

Tallinn, Beauty of Estonia

Upon arriving in Estonia, I distinctly remember feeling as though I had landed in Quebec. I understand that at first glance, Tallinn and Montreal don’t have much in common. However, as I wandered through the streets of the Estonian capital, I felt like I was strolling in a small town in Quebec, especially because of the autumnal scents. I have a vivid memory of Tallinn in autumn that resembles my memories of autumns in Quebec: colorful trees scattered throughout the city and children playing in piles of leaves. What also characterizes this memory is the scent of autumn, a blend of damp bark and leaves, enhanced by the brisk air that teases my olfactory senses and plunges me into deep nostalgia. It might sound strange when put this way, but anyone who has walked in a slightly chilly forest morning in autumn will know exactly the scent I’m describing. This fragrance, pervasive throughout Tallinn, makes it impossible for me, even today, to separate it from the city.

Tallinn is more than just an autumnal scent. It’s a quiet, peaceful, and colorful city. The downtown area of Tallinn obviously differs from that of a bustling international capital. Viewpoints offer an overview of this human-sized city. The pastel-colored houses and numerous church steeples add genuine character. The locals also display great kindness and undeniable warmth. This city blew such a breeze of serenity over me that, at the time, I could have easily seen myself staying there, in Tallinn, learning Estonian (which is far from easy) and playing in the snow during winter. However, upon reflection, life in Tallinn would likely be too calm in the long run, and I don’t think Benjamin is (yet) ready to return to living in a cold country with long, harsh, and icy winters.

A Leap through Time in Latvia

I have memories of Latvia rich in historical heritage. Whether it’s medieval or 18th-century castles, the former KGB headquarters, or traces of the ghetto, it inevitably takes its tourists on a journey. You can sense that the country has a history, that it’s proud of it, and wishes to unveil it to the world. Moreover, some remnants of this history give the impression of being real scars preserved so that the Latvian people do not forget their past.

One of the vestiges of this troubled past that undoubtedly struck me the most was the Soviet invasion of 1940. While I had already delved into Nazism and the horror of the Holocaust during a previous trip to Poland, notably at Auschwitz, I was discovering for the first time the dark side of the USSR by visiting the KGB headquarters in Riga. I confess to having very few memories of the KGB. True, I wasn’t very old at the dissolution of the USSR, but I believe it’s not just a matter of age. During my childhood in Quebec, I don’t recall anyone speaking to me about Stalin and all that led to the creation (and dissolution) of the USSR. In school, at least at that time, we were only briefly taught about recent world history. It was hurriedly covered at the end of a school program that had begun in September with prehistory… History was revisited two years later, but this time, the emphasis was on Quebec and Canada. Of everything that had happened elsewhere on the planet, the little Quebecer that I was knew very little. So, I undertook this visit with significant ignorance (but not complete: I had already watched the first season of The Americans).

The shock was striking. From the interrogation rooms to the cells, everything was designed to break the other person. Everything was intended to isolate, humiliate, break one’s will and psyche, and force them to confess to acts they had sometimes not even committed. Faced with the immense power of the Soviet Union, there was cause for trembling. It was impressive, even frightening, to see how the USSR infiltrated various layers of Latvian society to extend and ensure its control over it. The tour was also led by a local guide whose family had been abducted and tortured in the rooms we were visiting. The memories he shared with us in such a transparent manner made the actions committed by the KGB agents even more horrible and monstrous. This visit concluded in the room where executions took place. The sight of hundreds of bullet holes piercing the walls left no one indifferent and undoubtedly remained etched in all our memories.

Whate Else Can I Say?

The journey also took us on the roads of Lithuania, in my opinion, the least interesting of the three countries. The charm that had captivated me in Estonia was no longer present. The Lithuanian roads had nothing particularly distinctive and gave the impression of driving through just any French countryside. The colorful trees had disappeared. The few souls encountered on the road to Vilnius, though lovely, seemed to carry the weight of the world on their shoulders. The gray and gloomy weather that accompanied us throughout the journey did nothing to dispel this sense of gloom and sadness. As much as I had been captivated by the history and beauty that permeated the streets of Riga, I was disappointed when discovering Vilnius. The cathedral, the surrounding park, the river crossing the city, and some buildings in the old town were charming and undoubtedly gave character to the city. Nevertheless, I found Vilnius small (despite being the largest of the three capitals), empty (indeed the least densely populated), and of little interest. It didn’t manage to charm me as much as its counterparts did. It’s evident that I must have missed something while visiting the city, and I probably didn’t understand it well, considering it attracts its share of tourists, and those we saw there seemed to enjoy their stay.

Are the Baltic Countries Worth Visiting?

The Baltic countries were undoubtedly an excellent discovery for our trip. If you’re seeking calm, safe destinations not too far from Western Europe that haven’t yet been overrun by tourists, Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania are undoubtedly excellent choices. While Estonia remains my favorite with its landscapes reminiscent of Quebec forests, Latvia (especially the city of Riga) is also worth a visit. Even though Lithuania didn’t evoke as many emotions for me, it still holds a few points of interest and serves as a good conclusion to the journey.

If, like us, you want to explore this part of Europe, I highly recommend doing it as a road trip, just as we did. The small size of the countries, their proximity, and the quality of the roads make it a perfect destination for this kind of journey. Additionally, the roads are safe and well-signposted to avoid any confusion for drivers. There are no border crossings (thank you, Schengen!), and car rental companies are accustomed to having their vehicles dropped off in a different country. Having a car also allows you the flexibility to travel at your own pace—no schedules to adhere to, no pressure from anyone. With a car, you’ll have the freedom to stop wherever you like and explore beyond just the three capitals, such as the seaside resort of Pärnu in Estonia, the Turaida Castle in Latvia, or the Hill of Crosses in Lithuania. These countries offer genuine tourist appeal, be it for their landscapes, history, or the warmth of their people.

Check out Benjamin’s Travel Reflections:

Travel Reflections: Benjamin

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