Two-Week Itinerary in Uzbekistan

THE HAIRY GIRAFFE… In UZBEKISTAN

How long? We went to Uzbekistan for two weeks.

When? Late September to early October. Clear blue skies every day. It was quite warm, but still very manageable.

Ease of Independent Travel: 3 giraffes In the cities, everything was done on foot (using the metro in Tashkent). Between cities, we hired the services of an agency that offered fixed packages for a car with a driver for transfers from Khiva to Nukus, Khiva to Bukhara (with stops at five desert fortresses), and for the two days at the Aral Sea from Nukus. We took the high-speed train for the journeys from Bukhara to Samarkand and from Samarkand to Tashkent.

Costs: 2 giraffes It’s still very affordable, but be aware that inflation is very high in the country, so there’s a risk that the destination will become increasingly expensive.

Ease of Communication: 2 giraffes Only the young speak English.

Security: 4 giraffes A priori, the risks for tourists are low.

Health: 3 giraffes Sanitary conditions have significantly improved. The water may not always be drinkable, but restaurants are using less cottonseed oil, which Western stomachs often don’t tolerate well.

Gay friendly: 1 giraffe It’s better to remain discreet.

Travel ease: 3 giraffes It’s not a difficult trip, as long as you stay in the cities. The rest of the country is more challenging to access for independent travelers.

Highlights: Khiva, the Aral Sea, Kalon Mosque (Bukhara), Shah-i-Zinda necropolis (Samarkand), and Tilla Kari mosque-madrasa (within Registan, Samarkand).

Letdowns: Bukhara (we found it a bit boring), Tashkent (the city doesn’t offer many points of interest).

Check out our individual Travel Reflections articles on Uzbekistan:

Benjamin’s Travel Reflections

François’ Travel Reflections

OUR 2-WEEK ITINERARY IN UZBEKISTAN

Here’s the detailed itinerary of our two weeks in Uzbekistan:

Day 0: Direct overnight flight Paris-Urgench.

Day 1: We arrive early enough to sleep a few hours before visiting Khiva, our favorite place in Uzbekistan. Khiva is small enough to explore in a day, but it’s so pleasant that it’s better to spend two or three days there.

Day 2: Car journey (with a driver) to Nukus, the capital of the Karakalpakstan Autonomous Republic (3-hour drive). Along the way, stop at the Zoroastrian tower of Chilpik Kala.

In the afternoon, we visited the Savitsky Museum, which holds the second-largest collection of Russian avant-garde art. Nukus itself may not be the most thrilling city, but the museum is very interesting, and there’s an opportunity to stroll around the town.

Day 3: We rented a car with a driver for a tour to the Aral Sea. We started early and began with a stop at the Mizdakhan necropolis.

Then, we drove to Moynaq, a former port of the Aral Sea, which is now more than 150 kilometers away from the shore. There, we found a small museum that wasn’t particularly interesting and the carcasses of boats, symbolic of the desolation of the town and the tragedy of the disappearance of the Aral Sea due to the irrigation policies enforced by the USSR.

We then drove across the desert that was once the Aral Sea until finally reaching, after a long day’s drive, the current shoreline.

We spend a night in a yurt.

Day 4: Return to Khiva. We take the day to relax in the streets of the old town and do some shopping. Check out our article on the souvenirs to bring back from Uzbekistan.

Day 5: Last day in Khiva.

Day 6: We hit the road again (still with a driver). The plan: visiting five desert fortresses between Khiva and Bukhara. Don’t expect these fortresses to be in great condition, let alone furnished! The journey is very long (more than ten hours) and through desert landscapes, but it offers sights and experiences different from the rest of the trip. The most interesting fortresses were Toprak Kala, Kizil Kala, and then Guldursun Kala. The less captivating ones were Ayaz Kala (looks great from below but disappointing from above), and especially Dumon Kala (almost nothing left).

Days 7 and 8: Exploring Bukhara (Liab-i-Khaouz, Kalon Mosque, Ismail Samani Mausoleum, Bolo-Khaouz Mosque, and a somewhat disappointing visit to the Ark).

Day 9: Morning in Bukhara (Tchor Minor) and a fast train to Samarkand.

Day 10: First day in Samarkand (Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum, magnificent, and a stroll around the city).

Day 11: Second day in Samarkand (Shah-i-Zinda necropolis, a real favorite, and a visit to the small Afrosyab Museum).

Visit to the Registan in the late afternoon to enjoy the monuments during both day and night.

Day 12: Morning in Samarkand then a high-speed train ride to Tashkent

Day 13: Visit to Tashkent, a very Soviet-style city lacking real charm (Chorsu Bazaar, which we didn’t particularly like, Uzbekistan Hotel, Amir Temur statue, and a stroll through a few central districts while taking the metro with its lovely stations).