THE HAIRY GIRAFFE… IN UZBEKISTAN
After two weeks in Uzbekistan, it’s time to reflect. How did we experience this journey? What were our joys, disappointments, questions, doubts, and discoveries? This is not merely an assessment of a country but rather of a trip—how we perceived it individually and subjectively.
 We are François and Benjamin, Canadian and French giraffe hairstylists and travel enthusiasts. On this blog, discover our travels, tips, moods, and everything you need to become a giraffe hairstylist and embark on travelling the world. An honest blog with photos guaranteed 100% unfiltered and untouched. |
François’ Travel Reflections
Central Asia was a complete mystery to me. Despite having seen images on TV or flipping through Benjamin’s photo album from his trip to Kazakhstan a few years ago, I couldn’t quite grasp what the landscapes might actually look like. In fact, as the trip approached, I realized I knew very little about these countries. I knew, of course, that they were former Soviet republics, but that was about it. So, it was in this state of mind that I landed in Uzbekistan.
Khiva, the Timeless Exception
One of the most enjoyable moments of this journey was discovering the city of Khiva. This fortified city is simply stunning. The fortifications surrounding the city create a real cocoon and give the feeling of being completely cut off from the outside world. It’s also truly delightful to wander and get lost in the winding streets or peek into one of the numerous shops nestled within the traditional houses.
To immerse ourselves in the local culture, we were fortunate to witness a spectacle featuring music, dances, songs, and traditional costumes right in front of one of the main madrasas. It was typical and completely immersive!
It was also in Khiva that I encountered my first… camel! I had seen dromedaries (one hump) several times before (we even went on a dromedary ride in Oman), but never encountered a camel (two humps) in person. Okay, I admit, it wasn’t the best encounter. The animal was tethered by the neck with a three-meter rope and forced to walk in circles around a stake in the ground—not the most ethical or ideal encounter we’ve had.
The Aral Sea, Where Time Stands Still
Driving a 4×4 “on” the Aral Sea is something truly unique. It’s impossible to shake off the realization that this is only possible due to an ecological disaster caused, once again, by human folly.
This folly is glaringly evident: just look at the numerous maps on the site to witness the astonishing speed at which the sea has receded. Walking among the stranded boats is undeniably impressive. They’re enormous, and we feel tiny next to them. However, seeing these abandoned ships also intensifies the overwhelming sense of sadness present at the site. As the sea withdrew, it left a significant number of locals struggling to survive…
Bukhara, Where Time Starts to Drag on
From Khiva, we hit the road to reach Bukhara. The journey is long, very long. A 6-hour, 30-minute drive connects the two cities, and the scenery is, how should I put it, monotonous and rather uninteresting.
To break up the journey, we stopped to visit the desert fortresses. Much-needed breaks. These fortresses, although their exteriors are impressive, remain somewhat insignificant. Most of them are essentially open-air ruins. The visits were swift.
As for Bukhara, it’s pretty: the Kalon Mosque is arguably the city’s most beautiful monument… and the only one. Okay, there are other mosques and mausoleums, but the most striking is this one with its immense blue-green ceramic gate. After three days in Bukhara, we found ourselves desperately seeking activities. Our steps kept leading us back to this mosque. As beautiful as it is, after three days of staring at it, it started to feel tedious… We couldn’t wait for Samarkand!
Samarkand, Where it Feels Like We’ve Crossed Space and Time… Only to End up at Disney.
I might be in for some heat if I dare say I didn’t like Samarkand, the iconic city of the Silk Road. Oh well, I’ll risk it (well, kind of)! The Registan, yes, it’s magnificent. Standing in front of these three immense buildings with their adorned and colorful beige, green, and blue facades is breathtaking. However, the magic dissipates quickly when you decide to step through the gates and enter inside these three medersas.
While the architecture remains splendid, these three structures now house hordes of vendors and shops spewing their low-quality products in the common spaces. It quickly becomes less magical and feels like you’ve entered the employee-only zone, the one behind the pretty facade.
Speaking of facade, the touristy street leading to the Registan also has a touch of Disney. Between shops, sometimes you catch glimpses of doors leading to the “real” city, the one behind the tourist facade. This city isn’t unsafe or ugly; it’s just hidden from the view of tourists. It’s unnecessary and adds a sense of artifice to the site. What a shame.
What Else Can I Say?
The cuisine here is surprising. Samsas, kebabs, laghmans… it’s traditional, it’s typical, and it’s delicious. Uzbek bread is also remarkable. It’s a round bread where a kind of stencil with spikes is firmly pressed in the center to give it various patterns. It’s better to eat your bread fresh because the flattened center hardens quickly.
Preserving water doesn’t seem to be a priority for Uzbeks. We’ve lost count of the number of flooded gardens we’ve seen. Continuous watering throughout the day, water flowing from pierced pipes, or trickling into drains because the ground is saturated—it’s quite common. Samarkand city is notably green. The lawns are plentiful and lush, which is quite surprising for a country located in the midst of a desert zone.
Is Uzbekistan Worth Visiting?
I remain somewhat divided by my stay in Uzbekistan. While I had some fantastic moments wandering through magnificent sites, admiring masterpieces of Muslim architecture, I also experienced moments of profound solitude. It was in conversing with friends who dream of visiting Uzbekistan that I began to think that perhaps I hadn’t fully grasped and understood all the subtleties of this country. That’s why I would tend to advise the traveler who dreams of Uzbekistan, its blue-green ceramics, or the Silk Road, to go there and form their own opinion. Perhaps they will be more receptive to this country than I was.
Check out Benjamin’s Travel Reflections:
Find all our other articles on Uzbekistan (souvenirs to bring back, our impressions…):
