THE HAIRY GIRAFFE… IN NAMIBIA
After three weeks in Namibia, it’s time to reflect. How did we experience this journey? What were our joys, disappointments, questions, doubts, and discoveries? This is not merely an assessment of a country but rather of a trip—how we perceived it individually and subjectively.
We are François and Benjamin, Canadian and French giraffe hairstylists and travel enthusiasts. On this blog, discover our travels, tips, moods, and everything you need to become a giraffe hairstylist and embark on travelling the world. An honest blog with photos guaranteed 100% unfiltered and untouched. |
François’ Travel Reflections
It’s a TV documentary, especially the stunning images of Sossusvlei, that inspired us to go to Namibia. We were captivated by these iconic pictures of a salt desert dotted with dead trees burned by the sun. We also loved our safari in Tanzania a few years earlier and cherished wonderful memories of magical moments with savanna animals. We wanted to visit Namibia for its wild and rugged aspect, and we were not disappointed.
Where Wildlife Reigns Supreme
While in Tanzania, animals are primarily found in national parks, in Namibia, it’s quite the opposite. Here, animals are at home and make it quite clear. They don’t concern themselves much with human presence, let alone a road. And we learned this right upon our arrival.
On the road between Hosea Kutako International Airport and the city of Windhoek, we indeed crossed several monkey colonies going about their lives, paying no mind to the vehicles zooming past them. The next day, still in the city and this time behind the wheel of our rental car, I had to brake abruptly because a monitor lizard over 2 meters long had decided it was crossing the road without looking.
Apparently, these kinds of adventures happen very often in Namibia, evidenced by the impressive number of traffic signs warning about the presence of wild animals on the roads. A true menagerie (guinea fowl, elephants, jackals, hyenas, oryx, warthogs, giraffes…) adorns these signs. Quite a change from the French signs that say ‘cattle crossing’!
In Namibia, it’s also possible to see animals up close, very, very close. Going into the garden of your lodge and finding an eland striking a pose just a stone’s throw from the pool, check. Swimming within a colony of rock hyraxes (a kind of marmot), check. Walking on a beach filled with 100,000 fur seals (the smell…!) basking in the sun, lounging on the parking lot and picnic tables, check.
Having lunch with the lodge owner’s pet meerkat at our feet, hoping for a crumb to fall, check. Petting a cheetah at a conservation center, check. And to think we’re still not in Etosha National Park!
Where the Landscape Changes at Every Turn
Namibian roads are long, and if, like us, you plan to tour the country by car, you’ll spend a significant part of your time on them. However, in Namibia, a long road doesn’t equate to a boring one. First off, encountering wild animals either peeking out in the savanna or right on the road will force you to slow down or stop for a photo opportunity. Then, you’ll find yourself captivated by the surrounding scenery that changes throughout your journey.
You’ve been driving for 150 kilometers through completely flat savanna when, after a simple turn, you’re faced with immense red mountains piercing the sky. You’re driving in the middle of the desert, and boom! the Atlantic Ocean appears on the horizon. The Kalahari Desert, Sossusvlei, Cape Cross, the coastal town of Lüderitz—countless diverse landscapes that will leave you in awe.
What Else Can I Say?
Namibia is rich in metals, gemstones, and semi-precious stones. Primarily known for diamond production, the country also boasts amethysts, topazes, tourmalines, rose quartz, gold, lithium, copper, and nickel. Significant areas (mainly in the western part of the country) are reserved for mining and therefore off-limits to the public.
One must-see site is undoubtedly the ghost town of Kolmanskop. Completely abandoned today, this town thrived during the diamond extraction period in the region. The abandoned buildings swallowed by sand leave no one indifferent.
Also, if, like me, you’re a fan of stones, you’ll have the chance to do some shopping along the road that connects Cape Cross (and its seal colony) to Brandberg (with its magnificent rock paintings). Indeed, you’ll find stalls filled with colored stones on either side of the road (don’t expect to find diamonds though…). You pick what you want and leave the amount of money you deem appropriate for your purchases in the box or under the designated rock. Pretty neat! I admit I went a bit overboard, much to Benjamin’s dismay.
Long a colony of both Germany and South Africa, Namibia became the last African country to gain its independence in 1990. Even today, the consequences of this foreign rule are visible, creating a significant divide within the population.
The wealthier descendants of European settlers reside in the most expensive and secure neighborhoods in the capital, often holding positions of authority. With the exception of lodges within Etosha National Park, lodge owners have European origins while their employees (maids, receptionists, waiters, and cooks) are of African descent.
Vast plots of land, often owned by people of European descent (we met a woman who owned 12,000 hectares!), make property ownership more challenging for individuals of African descent. We attempted to discuss this with a farmer, our sole host at the time, and quickly realized it was a sensitive subject.
Is Namibia Worth Visiting?
Absolutely, without hesitation. However, it’s distant, indirect, and can be costly. We had the opportunity to visit immediately post-COVID and benefited from drastic price reductions, compromising some level of travel comfort. Nevertheless, with its magnificent and diverse landscapes, abundant wildlife, and the liberating feeling behind the wheel of a 4×4, the country appeals to travel enthusiasts.
Namibia caters to various tastes. Those fond of vast spaces, tranquility, and solitude will find their niche. Frankly, I can’t recall spending time on Namibian roads without encountering humans (an oryx is never too far away, so you’re rarely entirely alone). Namibia also swiftly satisfies wildlife enthusiasts by offering a different but equally compelling version of a safari. To stay in theme, Namibia is an authentic rough diamond.
Check out Benjamin’s Travel Reflections:
Find all our other articles on Namibia: