THE HAIRY GIRAFFE… IN CENTRAL EUROPE
After about ten days in Central Europe, it’s time to reflect. How did we experience this journey? What were our joys, disappointments, questions, doubts, and discoveries? This is not merely an assessment of a country but rather of a trip—how we perceived it individually and subjectively.
 We are François and Benjamin, Canadian and French giraffe hairstylists and travel enthusiasts. On this blog, discover our travels, tips, moods, and everything you need to become a giraffe hairstylist and embark on travelling the world. An honest blog with photos guaranteed 100% unfiltered and untouched. |
François’ Travel Reflections
Here we are, back on a plane. It’s now been over nine months since we returned from our round-the-world trip. While the experience of traveling around the world was unique and incredible, and we truly enjoyed every moment of it (except for the dengue fever, and I must admit I’m still traumatized by my time in India), we didn’t feel an overwhelming urge to set off again.
We enjoy our comfort. Sleeping in a real bed, showering with hot water, having access to drinking water, and eating a varied diet, it’s truly great. On top of that, the many flights we’ve taken have made us develop a fear of flying. We still vividly remember all our turbulent flights in China and an extremely long transpacific flight (not to mention the round trip to Easter Island).
Nevertheless, once we were back at work, the vacation days started piling up, and our desire to explore new places resurfaced. While we were thinking about our next destination, an opportunity to go to Réunion Island came up. We were very tempted, but unfortunately, we couldn’t picture ourselves taking such a long flight. So we turned to Europe, closer, and generally pleasant to visit in the spring. In the end, the choice was an easy one: we would do a tour of Central European capitals. We’d been talking about it for a while. It’s nearby. It’s full of culture and history. It’s simple. So, it would be an easy trip. On the itinerary for our two-week vacation: Prague (in Czechia), Vienna (in Austria), and Bratislava (in Slovakia).
In itself, I don’t have many images of this part of Europe. I know that the Czech Republic and Slovakia were one and the same country for many years. I also know that ice hockey is a national sport, and that some of the best players in the National Hockey League in North America come from there.
As for Vienna, I think of classical music and Empress Sissi. My grandmother was a big fan of the film trilogy with Romy Schneider. I clearly remember watching them with her a few times, but as a child, I found them kind of boring. I also have no memory of the plot (except that her grandfather pretended to be deaf so he wouldn’t have to interact with his hysterical wife), nor of the historical events it was based on. So I embarked on this trip with a very naïve perspective.
Let’s be clear right away, of the three capitals, my favorite is still Bratislava. It’s tiny, no denying that. But the historic center is truly beautiful. The colorful buildings, the little squares, the human scale of the city, and the overall vibe made it my top pick. I also found that people there were a bit more smiling, welcoming, and friendly than in Prague and Vienna. That said, we’re still in Eastern Europe, you won’t get the kind of warm, Mediterranean hospitality. Still, walking around the streets of Bratislava is a thoroughly enjoyable experience.
Slovak cuisine was also the most interesting of the entire trip. It’s much more varied and flavorful than its neighbors’. In Bratislava, we had dishes that were more refined and visually appealing. A schnitzel alone on a plate or two sausages lying on a bed of cabbage isn’t exactly sexy… But our lunch in Slovakia really gave me the feeling of discovering new flavors. Bratislava is also my favorite because it’s (a bit) more affordable than the others. You feel a little less like you have to sell an organ to pay for a meal at a restaurant or to buy a souvenir.
Prague was nice too. The colorful buildings are clearly what give the city its charm. The small cobbled streets of the Old Town create a lovely maze that’s truly enjoyable to wander through. Plus, the fact that tourist sites are spread out on both sides of the river makes for longer walks and helps disperse the crowds. Overtourism is undoubtedly Prague’s biggest downside. We noticed a huge difference between a Saturday morning and a Sunday afternoon. On Saturdays, hordes of people flood the streets, create bottlenecks, and significantly diminish the experience. On top of that, since most of them move in groups, a quiet moment in a slightly out-of-the-way spot can quickly lose its charm when forty people show up at once. Prague is also a party destination and a favorite spot for bachelor and bachelorette parties, which can sometimes add to the noise pollution. I believe better management of tourist flows would make the experience even more enjoyable.
As for Vienna, I have more mixed feelings. The architecture is pretty, but it lacks finesse and consistency. The buildings are heavy, massive, and imposing. They look like raw stone blocks placed side by side by a giant. There’s not much elegance to them. Plus, it’s not uncommon to see a neo-style building with beams or sculptures (visually interesting) right next to a modern concrete block with no shape or ornamentation (in other words, ugly). The Habsburg Palace is also a perfect example of this lack of harmony. Its wings or façades are in different styles, which creates a patchwork of colors and textures that isn’t necessarily pleasing to the eye.
If one of the city’s undeniable strengths is its cultural offerings, the high cost of tickets is outrageous. The average ticket for an exhibition is 20 euros, more for a small recital. Schönbrunn Palace ended up costing us 1.5 times more than Versailles, for a much lower quality experience. It’s absolutely insane.
The food there is also very good. It was the first time in a long while (probably since I left Quebec) that I had eaten such delicious sausages. Big, plump, flavorful it was a real pleasure to eat them. Same goes for the schnitzels. I love breaded meats (who doesn’t?). Sausages and schnitzels are great once or twice, but when all your lunches boil down to that, it gets a bit repetitive. When everyone is raving about a chocolate cake and you see long lines in front of cafés known as the masters of that dessert, it definitely makes you want to (generously) open your wallet to try it. But when the cake turns out to be dry, not moist at all, and you have to eat it with whipped cream just to make it go down easier, it’s inevitably quite disappointing.
Are Prague, Vienna and Brastilava Worth Visiting?
Yes, definitely. The easy access from Paris and, above all, the railway network connecting the three cities is a major advantage. Although they are all linked by history, each city has its own unique character worth discovering. While you’re in the area, don’t hesitate to go a bit further and visit Budapest, the capital of Hungary. This other capital of the Austro-Hungarian Empire is well worth the trip and offers the perfect way to round off your journey by relaxing in a public bath, one of the city’s main attractions.
Check out Benjamin’s Travel Reflections:
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