The Hairy giraffe… IN HONG KONG & MACAU
Benjamin wanted to include Hong Kong in our world tour. As a fan of metropolises, he couldn’t miss the opportunity to visit the city with the most skyscrapers in the world. Hong Kong is the ultimate megacity. It’s also one of the most important ports in the world. It’s also an internationally renowned cinematic hub.
Just next to it, Macau, much less impressive than its counterpart, is the Chinese Las Vegas. Casinos, each more golden, kitschy, and extravagant than the next, and a past with Portuguese and Mediterranean influences.
Hong Kong and Macau are former European colonies (British for the former, Portuguese for the latter). They are now predominantly Chinese regions with a very special status. Each has its own currency, passport, government, and borders. However, they both ultimately answer to the Chinese behemoth, which watches over them with a keen eye. This produces a fascinating blend of East and West.
We’ll tell you all about this trip to these special Chinese administrative regions!
How long? We stayed two days in Hong Kong and one day in Macau.
When? Mid-march.
Ease of independent travel: 4 giraffes on averageIn Hong Kong, it’s quite easy to get around independently. The metro is fast, efficient, and serves the main tourist attractions in the city. The bus system is also very reliable. Buses and trams are generally punctual. A legacy of British colonization: buses are double-decker and driving is on the left. The key to getting around in Hong Kong: the Octopus card. It can be purchased at any station and, once loaded, provides access to all transportation. An amount will be deducted from the card each time you board. Bonus: it can even be used to pay for everyday purchases in stores.
In Macau, there is no metro. A network of buses allows you to get around the city. Free shuttles are set up between the casinos and the airport, the port (ferry), and the road border checkpoint.
Several means exist to connect Hong Kong to Macau. We’ll discuss them a bit further down.
Costs: 5 giraffes Traveling in Hong Kong can be expensive. Accommodation and restaurants will consume a portion of your budget. Hong Kong is one of the cities in the world with the most millionaires, and you can feel it. The budget is significantly smaller in Macau, unless you enjoy gambling!
Ease of communication: 3 giraffes on average In Hong Kong, English is quite widespread, although one should not expect everyone to speak it.
In Macau, the level of English is much lower, making communication more difficult. Portuguese speakers, don’t celebrate just yet. Although it was a former Portuguese colony, hardly anyone speaks Portuguese. So, you’ll also have trouble making yourself understood. But everything is written in Portuguese.
Safety: 5 giraffes No security issues or feelings of insecurity during our visit to Hong Kong and Macau. It’s important to remember that we are in China: therefore, we avoid anything political.
Health: 5 giraffes Hong Kong’s medical system is very efficient. It’s even one of the best in the world. The hygiene standards are also excellent.
Gay friendly: 3 giraffes on average While LGBT individuals have increasingly more rights in Hong Kong, there are no laws protecting them from discrimination. However, in Macau, almost only same-sex sexual relations are allowed.
Travel ease: 5 giraffes No particular concerns for visiting Hong Kong and Macao.
Highlights: The views of Hong Kong from Victoria Peak and the Avenue of Stars, the kitsch side of the casinos in Macau, the blend of East and West.
Letdowns: The lack of smiles from people, the very rushed atmosphere in restaurants, the absence of the dynamism and excitement typical of big cities like Seoul and New York, the Hong Kong History Museum, closed during our visit.
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THREE-DAY ITINERARY IN HONG KONG & MACAU
Here is the detailed itinerary of our three days in Hong Kong and Macau :
Day 0: A flight of just over 2 hours and 30 minutes from Cebu in the Philippines. We arrive at our hotel in Hong Kong in the evening.
Day 1: We start our stay in Hong Kong with a stroll along the Avenue of Stars. It’s the Kowloon waterfront promenade that honors Hong Kong cinema artists. So, we were able to put our hands in the imprints left by Michelle Yeoh and Jackie Chan, see the commemorative plaque of Wong Kar-wai, and the statue of Bruce Lee, all while having a breathtaking view of Hong Kong.
Then we walk up Nathan Road, with a detour to Kowloon Park and its avenue of comic book stars.
We have lunch at the Australia Dairy Company, in real proximity!
In the afternoon, we walk to the Mong Kok district and its markets.
As the weather is very nice, we decide to take the metro to Hong Kong Island to admire the view from Victoria Peak. We had read online that the wait for the tram up to Victoria Peak could sometimes be over 2 hours. Since we wanted to see the sunset from there, we went in the late afternoon. In the end, we only waited for about fifteen minutes before boarding the tram. The Octopus card allows you to skip the ticket queue. Since the tram is glass-enclosed, the ascent is already an attraction in itself.
Arriving at the top, we are quite surprised by the presence of a crowded shopping mall. People seem more interested in shopping than in the breathtaking view of the city. It’s not so bad: there will be fewer people at the viewpoints!
We take Lugard Road, which leads us to beautiful viewpoints in about fifteen minutes, free and more beautiful than those in shopping malls. We admire the sunset there, despite the increasing cold.
Day 2: We had planned to visit the Hong Kong History Museum. Unfortunately, we will have to forget the idea because the entire museum is under renovation (even though the website we checked that morning assures us of its opening). We are quite disappointed, as we would have liked to learn more about this territory with its unique status.
After a Japanese meal break (we console ourselves with what we have on hand), we head to Nam Lian Garden.
The gardens are really beautiful. Trimmed trees, drawn sand, carefully placed rocks, all the elements of a zen garden are there. A beautiful pond with huge, well-fed carp and a harmonious waterfall complete the scene.
We then move on next door to the Chi Lin Nunnery. The entirely wooden building and garden bring a real natural feel to an environment filled with tall concrete towers. However, it’s a shame that the main hall with statues completely covered in gold brings a bit of a ‘too much’ vibe to the whole place. Unfortunately, photos are not allowed inside the hall, so you’ll have to take our word for it on this last point.
We will then walk to the Taoist temple Wong Tai Sin.
Like all Taoist temples, it is rich and colorful, but less so than those we have seen in Taiwan.
We will taste a McDonald’s matcha and Oreo sundae that caught our eye since our arrival in Hong Kong.
Day 3: We decide to take advantage of the fact that we are not far away to spend the day in Macau. To get from Hong Kong to Macau, three options are available to us: a ferry, a private bus, and public buses. The first option is quickly ruled out: it’s windy, the sea is rough, and François gets seasick. The second option is complicated because the bus only stops for a few minutes at the border and leaves with… or without tourists on board. It’s ideal for Hong Kong residents who pass without any issues, but for a foreigner who has to queue to present their passport, the time might be too short. So, the last option is ours. Luckily, the bus that takes us to the border checkpoint stops right outside our hotel. Another stroke of luck: the checkpoint is empty when we arrive. So, we quickly find ourselves on a second bus that takes us to Macau via the world’s longest bridge (55 km). Upon arrival and after passing through Macau customs, we hop on a third bus headed to the old town. In total, it takes us about 2.5 hours from our hotel near Hong Kong Central Station to the old center of Macau.
We get off a few steps from Senado Square. From our arrival, we feel like we’ve been transported to Western Europe. The old buildings, the color, and the layout of the cobblestones resemble what we have seen in Spain or Portugal. The significant number of churches is quite surprising for an Asian country. The remnants of the former Portuguese colonization are still very present. The streets and municipal signs are written in Portuguese and Chinese. It’s quite strange.
From Senado Square, we walk towards St. Dominic’s Church, the first church to be built in China in 1587. The church is cute.
We head back down towards St. Joseph’s Seminary (closed to the public), St. Augustine’s Church, and the Dom Pedro V Theatre. The church features a beautiful wooden ceiling. The facade of the theater adds a certain charm that contrasts with the recent and very ugly residential buildings all around.
After a quick lunch, we head to Macau Cathedral. The facade is simple and decorated with only a few stained glass windows. The interior is also clean and illuminated with pastel colors.
We conclude our visit to old Macau at the Ruins of St. Paul’s, a church of which only the facade and foundations remain. The church, built in the early 17th century, burned down in 1835. The facade is imposing, standing alone atop its hill. Its decorations between saints and chimeras are a beautiful blend of Western and Eastern styles.
We then take the bus, heading towards the casinos. Known primarily for these (which are actually much more profitable than those in Las Vegas), it was impossible for us not to go there.
In the space of four hours, our steps took us from London to Venice via Paris (yes, we took giant strides).
At the Londoner, we were able to take a photo in a London bus and salute Winston Churchill.
At the Parisian, we strolled along the Champs-Élysées singing Coquillages et crustacés before turning at Place de la Concorde to end up behind the Moulin Rouge, at the foot of the Eiffel Tower (Parisian geography needs reviewing).
At the Venetian, we crossed numerous bridges spanning canals on which gondolas transported tourists. We couldn’t resist taking a selfie in St. Mark’s Square, in front of the Doge’s Palace, at the foot of the bell tower.
The casino experience was fun and quite kitschy. Even though the geography of some places needs to be revisited, it’s amusing to see European clichés in Asian lands.
Did we gamble our round-the-world budget in a casino? Did we break the bank or are we forced to eat dry bread for the next few months? Mystery…
Day 4: We spend the morning strolling around our hotel before heading to the airport.
It’s already the end of our adventure in Hong Kong and Macau. In the late afternoon, we leave Hong Kong for China, the next stop on our world tour.
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