The Hairy giraffe… IN DUBLIN
This two-day trip to Dublin was a continuation of our Central European capitals tour (which began with Budapest a few years ago). Don’t worry—we’re not flunking geography. We know Dublin is far from Central Europe. We simply took advantage of a few extra days off to hop over to the Emerald Isle. It was also a chance for us to ease back into traveling after our eight-month trip around the world.
We decided to take our time. Although two days are more than enough to visit Dublin, we actually stayed twice as long. This gave us a better chance of capturing some sunny photos, something that can be quite rare in Ireland.
Here’s everything you need to know about our trip to the Irish capital!
How long? We stayed two days in Dublin.
When? Late May. Irish weather is quite unique. It often boils down to overcast skies with varying (and often heavy) rain. If you’re lucky, you might catch a glimpse of blue sky. If you’re very lucky, the sun will make an appearance. The wind is also a strong presence. In short, in Ireland, you can experience all four seasons in a single day.
Ease of independent travel: 5 giraffes 
Getting around the streets of Dublin is easy. The tourist area is fairly compact, so you can easily explore it on foot. If you want to get around more quickly, there are plenty of double-decker bus routes as well as two tram lines. If you’re taking the bus, you must signal the driver to stop. Even if you’re the only one at a remote bus stop in the middle of nowhere, the bus might not stop unless you make yourself known. Dublin buses are often late, and traffic congestion is a common issue.
Train lines are also available if you want to explore what the surrounding areas have to offer.
Be very careful: the Irish drive on the left. Pedestrians also tend to ignore traffic lights and cross anywhere, anytime.
If, like us, you’re only in town for a few days, you should consider getting a tourist Leap Card. This transport pass, valid for 24, 72, or 168 hours (1, 2, or 7 days, counted by the hour), gives you unlimited access to all public transportation in the capital.
If you prefer to take the bus occasionally, you can pay the driver in cash. Just make sure to tell them your destination stop: the fare depends on the distance traveled.
Costs: 5 giraffes Traveling in Ireland isn’t cheap. While grocery shopping can cost about the same as in France, it’s a different story when it comes to accommodation and dining out.
Hotels (or Airbnb-style rentals) are very expensive. It’s not uncommon to find a tiny room with a bathroom for 120 euros. Despite the price, you won’t have access to any services, like room cleaning.
Restaurant meal prices in Dublin are similar to those in Paris. However, especially in tourist areas, it’s not uncommon to be asked to add a tip (which is not mandatory in Ireland) and a service charge. As a result, your bill can increase by up to 20%.
Ease of communication: 4 giraffes 
If you speak English, you’ll do just fine. However, you’ll need to adapt to the strong Irish accent, which adds a bit of a challenge. Many Irish people also speak very quickly and tend not to articulate clearly.
In addition, the Irish language (Gaelic) is present everywhere. You’ll see it on street signs, and bus and tram stops are announced in both English and Irish. Incomprehensible to most foreigners, the language is reportedly spoken by about 3% of adults.
Safety: 5 giraffes We didn’t experience any safety issues or feelings of insecurity. Pickpockets can sometimes be found in very touristy areas, but it’s nothing like the situation in Paris.
Health: 5 giraffes This is Europe: health risks are low and the healthcare system is excellent. Don’t forget to bring your European Health Insurance Card.
Gay friendly : 5 giraffes LGBT rights are excellent in Ireland.
Facilité de voyage : 5 giraffes Dublin est un voyage facile et parfait pour un voyage court séjour.
Highlights: the friendliness of the Irish, the lively atmosphere of the streets in Temple Bar, the Guinness, the pubs that are exactly as you’d imagine them, and the ever-present souvenir shops offering everything in shades of green at really good prices
Letdowns: 
the weather. Experiencing all four seasons in a single day (or even within the same hour) makes planning outdoor activities quite tricky. The empty shelves of the Trinity College library.
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2 DAYS IN Dublin
Since it’s a bit difficult to talk about an itinerary when spending just two days in the same city, here’s a list of sights and activities to see or do to help you prepare for your visit to Dublin:
Day 0: A direct flight takes us to Dublin. While it takes 3 hours to get there from Vienna, the journey is cut in half from Paris. One useful thing to know: Ireland is not in the Schengen Area. Although it is part of the European Union, Ireland (along with Cyprus) is not part of Schengen. So don’t be surprised if you have to go through border control at your departure airport.
What to do in 2 days in Dublin?
South of the Liffey
– The Guinness Storehouse. Guinness is without a doubt the most famous Irish beer. Dubliners are extremely proud of their national drink. In fact, it’s impossible to walk through Dublin without seeing an ad or the brand’s logo somewhere in view. They’re also deeply grateful to the Guinness family, who employed (and still employ) a significant number of locals and acted as patrons in restoring or building structures, parks, and monuments that are now landmarks of the city.
Whether you’re a fan of beer or Guinness or not, the tour of the brewery (still in operation) is a must. As you make your way through the seven floors at your own pace, you’ll learn more about how Guinness is made and about its marketing. You’ll get to see and watch vintage ads promoting this iconic beer, learn about the Guinness family and their achievements, and even see the 9,000-year lease signed by Arthur Guinness in 1759.
Never had a Guinness? No problem! A tasting is included along the way. So when you arrive at the Gravity Bar at the top, you can decide whether to enjoy a pint of Guinness, another beer, or a non-alcoholic drink. If you’re lucky, you might even find a seat to sip your drink (included in the ticket price) while taking in the 360° view over Dublin.
Still craving Guinness or just a big fan? There’s a shop waiting for you on the ground floor. While some items can be found all over the city at lower prices, others are exclusive to this store.
– St. Patrick’s Cathedral. The patron saint of the Irish, St. Patrick is said to have baptized converts in a well near the cathedral, which was built in 1220. Entry requires a ticket.
– Trinity College. A university whose alumni include Bram Stoker and Oscar Wilde, Trinity College is known for housing one of the most beautiful libraries in Europe. Over 200,000 books normally line its shelves.
It all hinges on “normally,” because for some time now, nearly 200,000 books have been removed for restoration. The experience is therefore much less magical, especially since the ticket price hasn’t been lowered. Included in the ticket is access to the Book of Kells. Dating back to 800, the book contains the four Gospels of the New Testament and colorful illuminations. The empty library shelves and the high price ultimately killed our motivation to visit.
– Dublin Castle. From 1204 to 1922, the castle served as a stronghold for British monarchy influence in Ireland, acting as the residence of the Viceroy. Now converted into a museum, it is still used for major events such as visits from notable figures (Pope Francis, Queen Elizabeth II, Margaret Thatcher…) and conferences. All presidential inaugurations also take place there. The visit is straightforward and easy, thanks to the detailed brochure provided at the entrance.
– Temple Bar. An iconic Dublin neighborhood, Temple Bar has incredible charm. Its cobblestone streets (which are protected), architecture, vibrant colors, and lively atmosphere are a must-see. You’ll find shops, restaurants, and pubs, including The Temple Bar Pub, famous for its whiskeys and beers. Naturally, Temple Bar is a tourist hotspot, so everything is much more expensive than elsewhere. In some pubs, the price of a pint of Guinness even depends on the time of day, cheaper during the day, it can reach sky-high prices in the evening. Keep an eye out.
– Free museums. The National Museum of Ireland traces the country’s history through numerous artifacts. The National Gallery of Ireland offers an interesting collection of works by Irish and European artists. These are perfect destinations on a rainy day, so chances are you’ll get to visit one not long after you arrive.
– Parks. Dublin has several lovely parks for running, strolling, or relaxing. If the weather allows, head to St Stephen’s Green, one of the city’s largest parks and a former site of public executions. If you’re planning a picnic, watch out for seagulls—they’re pros at snatching food, and your snack might end up on the ground or, at best, in a bird’s stomach. Merrion Square Park is also very nice. There you’ll find a statue honoring Oscar Wilde, seated on a rock and gazing at his former home, which still stands just across the street.
– Street musicians. When we said Dublin is full of life and energy, street musicians are a big part of that. You’ll find them all over the city, but if you want to be sure to catch some, head to Grafton Street. This pedestrian street is packed with shops (including one of the last Disney Stores in Europe), and musicians perform in the open air. Soloists, duos, and bands of all ages play everything from traditional Irish tunes to popular songs.
If you’re very lucky, you might spot international stars strumming a guitar there—Bono and Ed Sheeran have both been heard. Another spot where you’re almost guaranteed to find a musician is on the square in front of St. Andrew’s Church, right next to the statue of Molly Malone. This flirtatious, fictional fishmonger is a symbol of the city.
– Kilmainham Gaol. This former prison turned museum offers insight into the Irish revolution. Tickets are hard to come by and are only available on-site.
North of the Liffey
– The Old Jameson Distillery. A perfect outing for whiskey lovers (with an “e”). The distillery offers various activities to immerse you in the world of Irish whiskey: tastings, mixology sessions, and even the chance to fill your own bottle straight from the barrel.
On the basic tour, you start with a welcome cocktail before moving through the rooms where the whiskey-making process is explained. It all ends with a tasting of three whiskeys. The experience is short (less than an hour). The discovery tour is offered in several languages, including French, which is great since the terminology is quite technical and may be harder to grasp in English. A quick tip: make sure to eat something beforehand.
You’re consuming a fair amount of alcohol in a short time, so you might feel a bit lightheaded afterward. If you don’t like whisky (or whiskey), the visit might not be worth it. The price is quite high and no non-whiskey option is offered during the tasting. That said, take a moment to step into the distillery. The bar at the entrance is really beautiful, with its decor blending wood, glass, and metal.
Another distillery, Teeling, located south of the Liffey in the Liberties district, offers a similar experience.
– EPIC Museum. This is the museum of Irish emigration. Over 10 million people have left Ireland over the years.
– The Spire. It’s impossible to miss this 120-meter-tall needle. One question remains: why?
20 km from Dublin
– Howth. A small seaside town easily accessible by train from Dublin (free ride with the tourist Leap Card). The town features walking trails with breathtaking views of the typically Irish green cliffs and the Irish Sea.
A pebble beach is also freely accessible along the road if you want to take a quick dip. On the harbor pier, you’ll find several seafood restaurants. It’s the perfect opportunity to enjoy some fish and chips (served here with a side of mushy peas).
All around the city
– Irish cuisine. It’s hard to visit Ireland without trying its famous local dishes. Start the day with a hearty Irish breakfast made up of eggs, bacon, sausages, black and white pudding, beans, mushrooms, tomatoes, and toast. For lunch, an Irish stew, this slow-cooked lamb or mutton dish with potatoes, onions, and carrots, and for dinner, its Guinness-based version.
– Pubs. Pubs are an essential part of Irish culture. While most of them are mostly frequented by regulars during the day, they all fill up in the evening. Some are traditional and feel like they’ve been untouched by time, while others are modern and stylishly decorated. In any case, you’ll find a lively atmosphere, whether it’s from rugby or football matches on big screens, groups of friends celebrating, or stag parties.
Music is also everywhere, and it’s not uncommon to come across live performances (traditional or otherwise). Of course, an Irish pub means alcohol. In all of them, you’ll find a range of Irish beers. Some also serve food, offering a simple and traditional menu. Chose a pub that doesn’t serve meals and feeling a bit hungry? No problem. In Ireland, you can freely enjoy snacks brought from outside, like crisps, nuts, and more. Dublin is said to have over 750 pubs, more than enough to find the one that suits you best.
It’s already the end of our stay in Dublin.
Our stay in the capital was memorable and left us wanting to return. Next time, we’ll rent a car and set off on an adventure along the country’s roads to see its most beautiful landscapes and uncover its hidden secrets.
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