The Hairy giraffe… IN BRATISLAVA
This two-day trip to Prague was the fourth and last leg of our Central European capital tour (which began with Budapest a few years ago). It was also, for us, an opportunity to get back into traveling after our eight-month round-the-world trip.
We took advantage of our stay in Vienna to take a trip to Bratislava—only 80 km separate the two capitals. Since the touristy part of the city is small, Bratislava is perfect for a day trip.
Here’s everything about our visit to the Slovak capital!
How long? We stayed one day in Bratislava.
When? Mid-May. Sun, a few clouds, and a temperature of around 20 degrees accompanied us during our time in Bratislava.
Ease of independent travel: 5 giraffes 
Getting to Bratislava from Vienna is very easy. A regional-style train connects the two capitals in about an hour. By purchasing a “Bratislava ticket” for just a few euros at the Vienna train station, you’ll get a pass valid for three days, including the round trip and free access to all public transport in Bratislava on the first day. So when you arrive in Slovakia, the bus from the station to the city center won’t cost you anything. After that, the historic center of Bratislava is very small, so you’ll have no trouble exploring it on foot.
Costs: 4 giraffes 
Bratislava is the least expensive of the four capitals on the trip. Prices are still high (we’re still in Europe), but meals, beer, and souvenirs are more affordable.
In Slovakia, tipping is not mandatory. Some very touristy restaurants or cafés may suggest adding one when you pay. To avoid this, choose restaurants away from tourist areas and frequented by locals, no one will bother you about a tip. You’ll also find tip jars in almost all souvenir shops. We’ll let you decide whether it makes sense to leave a coin for an employee with a regular salary who’s simply ringing up your purchase.
Ease of communication: 4 giraffes Slovak is the official language. However, you’ll have no trouble making yourself understood in English in Bratislava.
Safety: 5 giraffes We had no safety issues or feelings of insecurity. Pickpockets can sometimes be found in very touristy areas, but the situation is nothing like in Paris.
Health: 5 giraffes You’re in Europe: health risks are low and the healthcare system is very good. Remember to bring your European Health Insurance Card.
Gay friendly: 3 giraffes 
LGBT rights are limited in Slovakia. The rainbow flags visible throughout the capital’s center might suggest a certain level of openness. However, we recommend remaining discreet.
Travel ease: 5 giraffes Bratislava is an easy trip and perfect for a short stay.
Highlights: the easy access from Vienna, a walkable historic center, Slovak cuisine
Letdowns: 
the areas outside the historic center quickly become covered in graffiti and run-down, and locals do tend to be a bit reserved
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1 DAY IN BRATISLAVA
Since it’s a bit difficult to talk about an itinerary when spending just two days in the same city, here’s a list of sites and activities to see or do to help you plan your visit to Bratislava:
Once again, Bratislava’s historic center is very small. The main points of interest are located in two separate areas on either side of the highway: the castle and the city center.
Bratislava Castle is perched on a hill overlooking the Danube. The lower terraces around it offer pleasant green spaces, playgrounds for children, and viewpoints over the old town.
The castle dates back to the 10th century, and Maria Theresa of Austria made it one of her two residences. During her reign, the sovereign had one residence per kingdom: one in Vienna (Kingdom of Austria), and one in Bratislava (Kingdom of Hungary). The castle, which now houses the Slovak National Museum, can be visited. The view over the Danube and the city alone is worth the climb.
If, like us, you arrived by bus, one of the first things you’ll see when entering the historic center is St. Michael’s Gate. It’s the only remaining gate from the medieval fortifications that once surrounded the city. Inside, you’ll find the Museum of Arms and City Fortifications. You can also climb the stairs and enjoy a view of the city from its 51-meter height. At the foot of the gate runs St. Michael’s Street, lined with shops and restaurants housed in 18th-century buildings.
Following Franciscan Street (parallel to St. Michael’s Street), you’ll arrive at the main square and the old town hall. The Renaissance-style building was rebuilt in 1599 after an earthquake, and the tower was redesigned in the 18th century in Baroque style. The surrounding buildings are colorful and add real charm to the setting. If you’re nostalgic for the Napoleonic era, you can pose next to a (bronze) soldier on the square, right in front of the French embassy.
By the way, bronze statues are everywhere in historic Bratislava. Initially installed in the streets to revitalize the city after the fall of communism, they’re now a hit with tourists.
One of the most famous is Čumil, a worker emerging from a manhole.
Not far from the main square, on Bezručova Street, is the Blue Church (Church of St. Elizabeth). Built in Art Nouveau style, the church owes its name to the color of its exterior. This color and its rounded shapes, under the sunlight, give the church a soft, almost cake-like appearance. It almost looks like a dessert.
We completed this itinerary with two culinary stops. The first, for lunch, was at a restaurant serving traditional Slovak dishes. We first set our sights on a domáca zemiaková knedľa, a dish of potato dumplings stuffed with smoked meat and served with pea purée, and bryndzové halušky, potato gnocchi with sheep cheese and bacon.
While the first one is flavorful with excellent taste, the second lacks punch (though not salt). In any case, these aren’t light dishes, especially when paired with a Šariš beer or the local cola, Kofola (which Benjamin had already tried in the Czech Republic).
The second stop was at a bakery to try the famous Bratislavské rožky or bajgel. These are pastries made of dough filled with poppy seeds and rolled into a horn shape, or filled with walnuts and rolled into a crescent shape. They’re not light, they’re sweet, but they’re very tasty.
Honestly, among the Czech, Austrian, and Slovak dishes we’ve eaten over the past few days, we preferred the Slovak ones by far. They’re more varied (it’s not just sausages, meat in sauce, or breaded cutlets), richer in flavor, and more seasoned with spices. A wonderful surprise!
If you too have been won over by Slovak cuisine and want to burn off a few calories, you can also head to:
– The Slovak National Uprising Bridge. It’s the one you crossed if you arrived in Bratislava by train. It’s also the one visible from the castle terraces. Yes, it’s the one with the flying saucer perched on a massive mast. Inside this UFO, you’ll find a restaurant and an observation deck with views over the city, the Danube, and Austria.
– The Presidential Palace. Formerly a Habsburg palace, it is now the residence of the President of the Republic.
– Devin Castle. This is a medieval fortress located 13 km from the city center (OK, the walk might be a bit long to get there). Buses will take you there in about forty minutes.
It’s already the end of our stay in Bratislava, a lovely surprise on our tour of Central European capitals.
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